Room for More....

Room for More....
Castle Rocks....SNP

The Watchtower

The Watchtower
Tokopah Valley....SNP

Down at the start of 'Full Metal Jacket'

Down at the start of 'Full Metal Jacket'
East Face Moro Rock....SNP

Get Ready....

Get Ready....
Upper Tokopah Domes

Early, Bold Seki First Ascentist still hard at it

Early, Bold Seki First Ascentist still hard at it
Bruce Hendricks on 'Fearful Symetry' Alberta, Canada

'Hang em High' Tollhouse Rock

'Hang em High' Tollhouse Rock
Looking straight up at 5.9

Larry Z Cranking Hard on Lead

Larry Z Cranking Hard on Lead
another Danland Classic....SNP

The Patio Ledge..West Side..Moro

The Patio Ledge..West Side..Moro
SNP

Slick Watts starting another fine TR at Buck Rock

Slick Watts starting another fine TR at Buck Rock
Buck Rock Fire Lookout...Sequoia Forest

Early 80's Crystal Wall Topo

Early 80's Crystal Wall Topo
Chimney Rock

Starting on 'Duet' 5.8..Chimney Rock Spire

Starting on 'Duet' 5.8..Chimney Rock Spire
Early 80's

Chimney Rock Spire Beta...Early 80's

Chimney Rock Spire Beta...Early 80's

Crystal Wall Beta....Early 80's

Crystal Wall Beta....Early 80's

Early 80's Overview of the Chimney Rock Area

Early 80's Overview of the Chimney Rock Area

Art Degoode....FA 'Harmonic Balance'

Art Degoode....FA 'Harmonic Balance'
Crystal Wall....Chimney Rocks

Climbing History of Chimney Rock

Climbing History of Chimney Rock
Early 80's

Moro Rock Cleanup....1998

Moro Rock Cleanup....1998
Climbers and Rangers....SNP

Weekend at the Moro Rock Parking Lot

Weekend at the Moro Rock Parking Lot
Early 90s....SNP

South Side of Moro Rock

South Side of Moro Rock
SNP

Homers Nose

Homers Nose
SNP

Heading to the base of Power Dome

Heading to the base of Power Dome
Courtright Res....

FA..EC Joe just past crux on 'Piece de Resistance'

FA..EC Joe just past crux on 'Piece de Resistance'
East Face..Moro Rock..SNP

East Face....Moro Rock

East Face....Moro Rock

FA 'Falling Ice' West Face

FA 'Falling Ice' West Face
Moro Rock....SNP

David Hickey on 5.10 'Hair Today Gone Tommorow'

David Hickey on 5.10 'Hair Today Gone Tommorow'
Little Baldy Dome....SNP

Tollhouse Rock

Tollhouse Rock

Heading up into 'Maggies Farm'

Heading up into 'Maggies Farm'
Balch Park..Sequoia National Forest

The Big Aid Routes on the East Face

The Big Aid Routes on the East Face
Moro Rock....SNP

Chimney Rock Spire

Chimney Rock Spire
Looking West

Crux of 'The Beckey Route'

Crux of 'The Beckey Route'
Chimney Spire....Chimney Rocks

The Exit of 'Late for Lunch' Cave

The Exit of 'Late for Lunch' Cave
SNP

1st Pitch..5.7. of 'White Punks on Dope'

1st Pitch..5.7. of 'White Punks on Dope'
Voodoo Dome..Needles..Kern Canyon

Castle Rock Trail..Rattler dead trying to swallow Ground Squirrel

Castle Rock Trail..Rattler dead trying to swallow Ground Squirrel
Castle Rocks....SNP

Fresh Air Traverse..East Face..Mount Whitney

Fresh Air Traverse..East Face..Mount Whitney
Traffic Jam at 14K

'Mowing the Yawn' Buck Rock Lookout

'Mowing the Yawn'    Buck Rock Lookout
Sequoia National Forest

Second Ascent of 'Entasis' 5.11

Second Ascent of 'Entasis' 5.11
Parker Bluff....Kern Canyon

Lower Pitch of 'Airy Interlude'

Lower Pitch of 'Airy Interlude'
The Needles....Kern Canyon

Far South end of Zocalo Ledge is the start of the West Face route

Far South end of Zocalo Ledge is the start of the West Face route
Moro Rock....SNP

Crux of 'King of Pain'

Crux of 'King of Pain'
Parker Bluff....Kern Canyon

Middle East Face..Moro Rock

Middle East Face..Moro Rock
Pushing a New Line

Tehipite Dome

Tehipite Dome
found on facebook........

Trapper Dome .. Courtright Res.

Trapper Dome .. Courtright Res.

The Watchtower....Tokopah Valley SNP

The Watchtower....Tokopah Valley SNP
Pic by Daniel Jeffcoach

NE face of Castle Rock Spire

NE face of Castle Rock Spire

Larry Z. High up in Danland..SNP

Larry Z. High up in Danland..SNP
'Hang Nine' pic by Dan D.

Up the knob wall below Condor Ledge West Side Moro

Up the knob wall below Condor Ledge  West Side Moro
Tying Knobs the whole way

West Side .. Castle Rock Spire

West Side .. Castle Rock Spire
SNP

Traversing Wall at the Lake

Traversing Wall at the Lake
Great Workout Wall to get you Strong

West Face .. Moro Rock .. SNP

West Face .. Moro Rock ..  SNP
Traverse on the West Face route

With the boys high up in Danland

With the boys  high up in Danland

Slick Watts getting up on Trapper Dome

Slick Watts getting up on Trapper Dome
Courtrite

Castle Towers

Castle Towers
Looking North

East Side of Castle Rocks....SNP

East Side of Castle Rocks....SNP
It looks like a bunch of Castle's

Rapping off of Condor Ledge

Rapping off of Condor Ledge
West Face....Moro Rock

East Face Route on Moro....SNP

East Face Route on Moro....SNP
J P St Crioux leads out on A2 in the 80's

Full Metal Jacket....

Full Metal Jacket....
East Face ....Moro....SNP

Little Bit - O Tehipite Dome - KNP

Little Bit - O Tehipite Dome - KNP
K.Folger Pic....

Backcountry Domes....Upper Kaweah..SNP

Backcountry Domes....Upper Kaweah..SNP
Pic and Homework by Daniel Jeffcoach

Angel Wings from the Top of Hamilton Dome

Angel Wings from the Top of Hamilton Dome
Photo by Sean Allen

Angel Wings....SNP

Angel Wings....SNP
Pic. by Daniel Leach

Castle Rock Spire and the Fin....SNP

Castle Rock Spire and the Fin....SNP
Another fine pic by Daniel Jeffcoach

Crystal Wall....Chimney Rock

Crystal Wall....Chimney Rock
Climbing on the Classic Route..Pop.a.Top

Castle Rocks....Back Towers

Castle Rocks....Back Towers
Photo by....Wil Mundy

South Face....Moro

South Face....Moro
Pitch one of 'South Cracks'

'North of Eden'...North Dome....KNP

'North of Eden'...North Dome....KNP

One of our Locals....

One of our Locals....
Watch where you put your hands and feet

First Ascent of Pressure Sensitive....West Side Moro

First Ascent of Pressure Sensitive....West Side Moro

..EC Joe on the First ascent of FMJ

..EC Joe on the First ascent of FMJ
East Face Moro Rock

Tuesday, January 7, 2014

Some more Lil Baldy....SNP

We used to go up there alot in the late 80's, early 90's when just a few were going up there. Still Crystals to be found on the ground. Lots of Good Rock up there with just a few potential routes left to do.......
First Pitch of 'Welcome to Little Baldy'

Last pitch of 'Wigged Out' is optional
Running it out on 'Wigged Out' upper pitches
West Face of Little Baldy showing some of the long routes.

Friday, December 20, 2013

Hockett Meadows...SNP....Bigfoot or What??

I've talked to alot of people that work in the woods for their living. I ask them about strange things they heard or have seen while being in the outdoors in Sequoia and Kings National Parks. I have a believe in the Bigfoot. Though, I'm also slightly skeptical and keep that all in mind when collecting information about strange stuff. The scream on this video is really eerie!! You tell me what it is?? I have heard the same kind of scream in Northern Ca. while way out  with Pack Mules, who were freaking out. I know that there is a Vast area, a kind of Bermuda Triangle of Bigfoot country, out in the South end of the park. An area that also encompasses Olancha Peak the area of a sighting in my earlier Bigfoot post. Mostly just wilderness, and its lonely out there! This video eludes to the screams coming from the East , which is just the area I'm talking about.  More on this to come...............

Monday, November 18, 2013

a few pics from Danland....11-15-13

 Got up on the trail later in the morning. We were waiting for it to get a little warmer as a weak storm front was passing bringing temps down and adding some wind. Nice hike up the trail with the sweet smells of earth, bay leave and oak. Got up to the rock wall and started up right there. We did the 3 pitches of the 'Silly Pinnacle'. First pitch is aid with a mixed bolt ladder and some climbing up higher. Second pitch is a 5.8 free climbing  corner, short but sweet. Last pitch is aid, a knarly looking overhanging roof crack up to a headwall bolt ladder to the top and the airy summit with the grand views! From here we do a quick 20' rap off the backside and scrambled down into a loose gully, down and back to the trail. We made it a quick trail run descent with the light going away fast and it was almost dark when we got to the car. Great Friday out!!




Tuesday, November 5, 2013

From your Host....

Thanks for checking in! I'm doing this blog because the guide is out of print and information from the old days is slowly fading. I have lots of old topos and pictures. Most from the day, which was 80's on. I was really lucky to be learning photography and climbing at the same time with some of the Boldest and Hard Core Trad Climbers that local history has ever seen! The routes that were put up have stood the test of time. This is a work in progress and I intend to add to it each week. There will be some recent stuff too from areas your interested in. DANGER....alot of the routes I'm showing here still have the old 1/4' steel bolts which are Death Clips by now! Beware of this. Climbing is Dangerous!

Sunday, November 3, 2013

Climbing around Lake Kaweah

There's several places around Lake Kaweah that offer climbing with stuff that's been done and lots more opportunities.
The Boulder Beach.
.Slick Rock Rec. Area

 
 Toproping on the other side of the lake.

 

Friday, November 1, 2013

The Fin....Castle Rocks....SNP




Pic by Daniel Jeffcoach


Climbers on 'Silver Lining'
Pic by Daniel Jeffcoach

Saturday, July 27, 2013

Homers Nose....SNP

A nice Wilderness Destination with only 2 routes 







Pics by Daniel Leach

Wednesday, July 24, 2013

Castle Rocks...The Fin.....The Original Register.....Pics by Daniel Jeffcoach

These pics were taken on the weekend of July 12th 2013. A new register was installed at that time. These are the pages of the old one.











 

Sunday, May 12, 2013

Easy Route Suggestion for the West Face of Moro

What route would you do in SEKI if you were wanting to do something fairly easy and haven't had much time on multi-pitch climbing?  I'm working on this answer and its a good one so as soon as I find some pics I'll let you know more..............


Pic by Chelsea Morgan
Coming up to Zocalo Ledge

 




Here's some more....If you park on the right side, right in the beginning of the Moro Rock Parking Lot you'll see the old bathrooms. Go down that way, West, as the hill starts to funnel into kind of a brushy gully. Keep going down and heading to your South. You'll come to a long slab going down and from there you go over to where it ends in a bush on a ledge. From here you go up the 'Link', up the face to the corner, around and up along the ledge to' Zocalo Ledge'. From this Big Ledge you start up the 'Offramp' route several pitches with good belays to the Stairs. Overall, there may be a move or two of 5.7 in there with some nice exposure, great belays and great views! 5 Pitches of some really great classic climbing.

Friday, May 3, 2013

Early April Adventure on South Face..Moro Rock..SNP

Thursday, April 4, 2013

Chimney Rocks....

  This is actually a pretty vast area with the Chimney Rock Spire being a main attraction. The Crystal Wall is also pretty popular, with lots of nice face climbing and easy to hard grades. Chimney Rocks is in a funny kind of triangle of management. National Park and Forest Service are involved as is the Giant Sequoia National Monument. The lines seem to all intersect here.
The Forest Service handles the Peregrine Falcon Closure with a blanket shutdown of the whole area. This Closure is now in effect....4-18-13 and will last till sometime in August.



Climbers up on 'Good and Plenty' 5.10 Chimney Rock
Starting on 'Duet' 5.8 Chimney Rock Spire

 North Side of Spire


 

Thursday, March 21, 2013

Castle Rocks....SNP

Update....A couple of weeks ago I hiked into the Castle Rocks with a friend to see how things are going up there. Its been 6 or 7 years since I've been. At that time we had cleaned up the trail quite a bit, clipping, moving and digging stuff out of the way. It wasn't stream line but for those who knew the way it was alot easier. Now, its all overgrown again! More than ever! Lots more trees have come down and fallen over the trail. We found a few of the carins that had been there before us. The PO is growing intensely, everywhere. I brushed one Tick off my arm back at the car. We ran into some snow, but its mid April so no real surprise. But this will be a very dry year up there. Lots of Bear and Deer signs. We parked at the Hospital Rock parking lot and walked in from there. This is still the place to park unless you get a site at the Buckeye Campground when it opens.... Memorial Day?? If you want a true wilderness experience with all the mix of jungle survival stories and enduro fests then this is the place! Doing a climb here successfully will be a lifetime of memories and some braggin rites. But to do all and get away unscathed is a pretty tall order and one gotten only with lots of study and even more just pure luck. I can't tell you everything there is to know about just getting there, because its one of the cruxes of the whole adventure. To some, the hardest part. Several well accomplished souls have never even made it to the climbing part, either being lost or tick bit or overcome by Poison Oak, which is everywhere. Some say there is a curse to the place and by listening to all the recent adventurers who have gone out you would agree its true. Here's one account..............




    A Hike to the Castle Rocks….A Climb on the Fin.... Notorious is what it’s known as. The front approach to the Castle Rocks is considered the most heinous and abusive of all destinations in the Sierras. But even with its snakes, poison oak, ticks, and a check of your navigation craft, it still holds the allure of a totally untouched wilderness attainable in a day. Then there’s the climbing, The Spire has only seen around 50 ascents since its first in 1950, and the Fin even less. But it’s the approach that guards these huge medieval towers and domes from any but the most willing. My mind had long since dulled of remembering the 3 times I failed. My friend Brandon called, he wanted to climb a route called “ Silver Lining” on the Fin, the 1000’ granite face right next to the spire, and asked if I wanted to go. I knew of Brandon’s long climbing resume and of his already first ascent of a new climb on the spire, I was on! The planning and logistics lead us to invite (con) 2 more friends along and by middle of this last May (the best time to go for water) we were ready. We got our backcountry permit, and headed down the road to Buckeye campground. The stereo blasting a tune that would stick in our heads for 3 days! We needed to go; the build up of angst over the last week was making us all jittery. Knowing the abuse ahead we mounted our packs of climbing gear, water, food et al (mine weighed 56 pounds and was the lightest) and headed up the paradise creek trail, with our ski poles tapping along, going into the unknown; a welder, a software analyst, a Lindsay high school teacher and a ranch hand…. we were an expedition. Our first test was to find the old Castle Rock trail, which starts just after the Paradise trail leaves the creek, about a mile or so up. Even having been here before, we still had trouble. Some parties have never found it. Friday luck was with us and after spotting the pile of rocks marking the spot, we stepped through the bushes and found the non-existent trail, showing in some areas, and then disappearing as nature takes back. What was once the Castle Rock Trail slowly traverses from the Paradise Trail to the hillsides along the front of the Castle Rocks, and then up the east side to meet the trail coming from Atwell mill. Long stretches have rockwork that now looks like the remains of some past civilization. The views are great when you come out of the bush and tree cover. But, you don’t come out much, and without visual landmarks you have to really pay attention. We had finally got to the part where the Poison Oak gets totally eyeball deep. All along the P oak was everywhere, but now it was total commitment. We had brought disposable paper spray suits for just this section, which we promptly put on, and looking like some kind of alien wildernauts we dove in. The last few hours were spent up over and under the section of fallen trees. By now our white suits were tatters, and scratches and cuts covered our arms. Everything was so dry that we were starting to wonder about the water in the creek ahead. We were running low, and no water at the base of the rocks meant we would have to turn around and go back, waterless. This was looming in our minds, as we rounded our final ridge and the camp we would stay came into view. There was a water seepage here, which we promptly started filtering. In this Amazonian jungle of foliage there were no flat areas, the old trail was to become our bed, lying lengthwise along it. We had made it in 8 hours, and it had lived up to its name as the worst of the worst. Saturday morning woke to the sound of a stove cooking oatmeal. Brandon and Derek were getting ready to climb the route, while Bruce and I would do a recon of the area between the spire and the Fin.Bruce had some compilcations with his diabetes, while I had a tick buried in my waist which I only removed part of! This knocked us out of the climbing. We helped sort-climbing gear, passed the aspirin, and as the climbing team headed up the last 1500 ft to the base of the route, we gathered the food to hang in the trees, as bear scat was everywhere. Up the trail from our camp was a bigger creek, which we drank from freely figuring it was only minutes from the source. When we got to the base, Brandon and Derek were already way up on it. We could hear their voices echo off the spire wall. This was a lonely place, with not a sign of man anywhere, except on the rock. Swinging in the wind were the sun-bleached ropes of some past escape epic. To far up to reach, but eerily close…. We watched, took pics and did our hike, and then headed back to our little bit of flat area. As we cooked, ants were everywhere, having gotten into all the gear, the mosquitoes came down in droves, as we swung rags around. Bruce reminded me that this was his vacation, we had to laugh… We would give the boys till 8 pm before we started thinking the worst. We all knew that any sprained ankle or other incident becomes serious here. Just at dark, we heard rustling, then 2 big grins walking the trail, success!! We made dinner, drank mixed gatoritas (tequila and Gatorade), and listened to their tale. The first ascent of “Silver Lining” was done in 1985, and theirs was the 12th according to the register on the top. The last ascent was 2 years ago. The quality of the rock is the best in the Sierras, the climbing made easier with modern devices of protection, and the view is one only a few get to see. We went to sleep in 48* weather under a starry night. We woke to the sound of birds of all kinds in the canopy. We packed to face the hike out. This was the last piece of the puzzle to solve. You never go out the same way they say, and that proved to be true. After going down too far, we came out on a grassy hill where we could finally get a GPS waypoint. Checking the map we decided to go straight down. Although very steep dirt, we made it out in 4 hours, and jumped in the pools at the trailhead. We had about a gallon of Technu (Poison Oak remover) between us and rubbed it all over. Our first entrance into the world as we know it, took us to Serranos Mexican food, where we ate, drank cold drinks and knocked our glasses in the air! Final outcome: 3 cases of Poison Oak, One tick buried deep, 1 case Guardia Saw no Rattlers……..