Top Rope-lead wall down in Lake Kaweah

Top Rope-lead wall down in Lake Kaweah
Nice New Bolts on Top....

Charlotte Dome....from the air

Charlotte Dome....from the air
Pic by Chris Templeton

South East Side....Moro

South East Side....Moro
Winter Studies

South East Side of Moro

South East Side of Moro
SNP....Moro Rock

Tehipite Dome....Kings Canyon National Park

Tehipite Dome....Kings Canyon National Park
Nice, Sharp view ...from Chris the Pilot

Tehipite Topo

Tehipite Topo
A Grand trophy for any Climber!

Middle Fork of the Kings River from the Overlook

Middle Fork of the Kings River from the Overlook
Lots of Rock....

Different perspective to the Castle Rocks

Different perspective to the Castle Rocks
Sequoia National Park

Slick Watts getting on the Face....Hermit Spire

Slick Watts getting on the Face....Hermit Spire
Hard 5.10d

Castle Rocks....The Fortress

Castle Rocks....The Fortress
One Route so far....

Classic Old Needles Topo

Classic Old Needles Topo
'Imaginary Voyage' 5.8

Classic, Old Hermit Spire Topo

Classic, Old Hermit Spire Topo
'The Falcon' 5.9

Clocked in and Working on another route in Danland

Clocked in and Working on another route in Danland
Larry Z photo by Dan D.

The most Classic line up in Danland....'Race Crack'

The most Classic line up in Danland....'Race Crack'
Larry and Matt high up on it....Dan D pic

The Needles...East Face Sorcerer

The Needles...East Face Sorcerer
Climber on 'Thin Ice' 5.10b

The Needles on my mind....

The Needles on my mind....
View from 'White Punks on Dope' a Tradster must do route!

Room for More....

Room for More....
Castle Rocks....SNP

The Watchtower

The Watchtower
Tokopah Valley....SNP

Down at the start of 'Full Metal Jacket'

Down at the start of 'Full Metal Jacket'
East Face Moro Rock....SNP

Get Ready....

Get Ready....
Upper Tokopah Domes

'Hang em High' Tollhouse Rock

'Hang em High' Tollhouse Rock
Looking straight up at 5.9

Larry Z Cranking Hard on Lead

Larry Z Cranking Hard on Lead
another Danland Classic....SNP

The Patio Ledge..West Side..Moro

The Patio Ledge..West Side..Moro
SNP

Slick Watts starting another fine TR at Buck Rock

Slick Watts starting another fine TR at Buck Rock
Buck Rock Fire Lookout...Sequoia Forest

Starting on 'Duet' 5.8..Chimney Rock Spire

Starting on 'Duet' 5.8..Chimney Rock Spire
Early 80's

Art Degoode....FA 'Harmonic Balance'

Art Degoode....FA 'Harmonic Balance'
Crystal Wall....Chimney Rocks

Moro Rock Cleanup....1998

Moro Rock Cleanup....1998
Climbers and Rangers....SNP

Weekend at the Moro Rock Parking Lot

Weekend at the Moro Rock Parking Lot
Early 90s....SNP

Homers Nose

Homers Nose
SNP

Heading to the base of Power Dome

Heading to the base of Power Dome
Courtright Res....

FA..EC Joe just past crux on 'Piece de Resistance'

FA..EC Joe just past crux on 'Piece de Resistance'
East Face..Moro Rock..SNP

East Face....Moro Rock

East Face....Moro Rock

FA 'Falling Ice' West Face

FA 'Falling Ice' West Face
Moro Rock....SNP

David Hickey on 5.10 'Hair Today Gone Tommorow'

David Hickey on 5.10 'Hair Today Gone Tommorow'
Little Baldy Dome....SNP

Tollhouse Rock

Tollhouse Rock

Heading up into 'Maggies Farm'

Heading up into 'Maggies Farm'
Balch Park..Sequoia National Forest

The Big Aid Routes on the East Face

The Big Aid Routes on the East Face
Moro Rock....SNP

Chimney Rock Spire

Chimney Rock Spire
Looking West

Crux of 'The Beckey Route'

Crux of 'The Beckey Route'
Chimney Spire....Chimney Rocks

1st Pitch..5.7. of 'White Punks on Dope'

1st Pitch..5.7. of 'White Punks on Dope'
Voodoo Dome..Needles..Kern Canyon

Castle Rock Trail..Rattler dead trying to swallow Ground Squirrel

Castle Rock Trail..Rattler dead trying to swallow Ground Squirrel
Castle Rocks....SNP

Fresh Air Traverse..East Face..Mount Whitney

Fresh Air Traverse..East Face..Mount Whitney
Traffic Jam at 14K

'Mowing the Yawn' Buck Rock Lookout

'Mowing the Yawn'    Buck Rock Lookout
Sequoia National Forest

Second Ascent of 'Entasis' 5.11

Second Ascent of 'Entasis' 5.11
Parker Bluff....Kern Canyon

Lower Pitch of 'Airy Interlude'

Lower Pitch of 'Airy Interlude'
The Needles....Kern Canyon

Far South end of Zocalo Ledge is the start of the West Face route

Far South end of Zocalo Ledge is the start of the West Face route
Moro Rock....SNP

Crux of 'King of Pain'

Crux of 'King of Pain'
Parker Bluff....Kern Canyon

Middle East Face..Moro Rock

Middle East Face..Moro Rock
Pushing a New Line

Tehipite Dome

Tehipite Dome
found on facebook........

Trapper Dome .. Courtright Res.

Trapper Dome .. Courtright Res.

The Watchtower....Tokopah Valley SNP

The Watchtower....Tokopah Valley SNP
Pic by Daniel Jeffcoach

NE face of Castle Rock Spire

NE face of Castle Rock Spire

Larry Z. High up in Danland..SNP

Larry Z. High up in Danland..SNP
'Hang Nine' pic by Dan D.

Up the knob wall below Condor Ledge West Side Moro

Up the knob wall below Condor Ledge  West Side Moro
Tying Knobs the whole way

West Side .. Castle Rock Spire

West Side .. Castle Rock Spire
SNP

Traversing Wall at the Lake

Traversing Wall at the Lake
Great Workout Wall to get you Strong

West Face .. Moro Rock .. SNP

West Face .. Moro Rock ..  SNP
Traverse on the West Face route

With the boys high up in Danland

With the boys  high up in Danland

Slick Watts getting up on Trapper Dome

Slick Watts getting up on Trapper Dome
Courtrite

Castle Towers

Castle Towers
Looking North

East Side of Castle Rocks....SNP

East Side of Castle Rocks....SNP
It looks like a bunch of Castle's

Rapping off of Condor Ledge

Rapping off of Condor Ledge
West Face....Moro Rock

East Face Route on Moro....SNP

East Face Route on Moro....SNP
J P St Crioux leads out on A2 in the 80's

Full Metal Jacket....

Full Metal Jacket....
East Face ....Moro....SNP

Little Bit - O Tehipite Dome - KNP

Little Bit - O Tehipite Dome - KNP
K.Folger Pic....

Backcountry Domes....Upper Kaweah..SNP

Backcountry Domes....Upper Kaweah..SNP
Pic and Homework by Daniel Jeffcoach

Angel Wings from the Top of Hamilton Dome

Angel Wings from the Top of Hamilton Dome
Photo by Sean Allen

Castle Rock Spire and the Fin....SNP

Castle Rock Spire and the Fin....SNP
Another fine pic by Daniel Jeffcoach

Crystal Wall....Chimney Rock

Crystal Wall....Chimney Rock
Climbing on the Classic Route..Pop.a.Top

Castle Rocks....Back Towers

Castle Rocks....Back Towers
Photo by....Wil Mundy

South Face....Moro

South Face....Moro
Pitch one of 'South Cracks'

'North of Eden'...North Dome....KNP

'North of Eden'...North Dome....KNP

One of our Locals....

One of our Locals....
Watch where you put your hands and feet

First Ascent of Pressure Sensitive....West Side Moro

First Ascent of Pressure Sensitive....West Side Moro

..EC Joe on the First ascent of FMJ

..EC Joe on the First ascent of FMJ
East Face Moro Rock

Thursday, July 17, 2014

The Fin....Castle Rocks Some Old Routes Perspective


NPS photo
 


Daniel Jeffcoach Photo


Daniel Jeffcoach Photo

Sunday, July 13, 2014

Burly Winter Ascent of the South Arete of the Angel Wings....SNP ....TR

another fine Daniel Leach photo
 

Angel Wings South Arete, V 5.11+
February 6-12, 2002
Jason Magness & Craig Clarence (writer)
 
As fall turned into winter last year, it occurred to me that I had let the
Sierra climbing season slip away.  Too much cragging, too many
expeditions, not enough time spent climbing in my favorite mountain
range. Could I work in a backcountry route, now that winter was here?  The
obvious partner for such a climb was my good friend Jason Magness, who was
attempting new routes in Patagonia this time last year.  
 
Kicking around ideas, Jason asked about the toughest Sierra
backcountry rock climb I've been considering.  Well, Angel Wings has the
toughest moves of any route in John Moynier's Sierra Classics book.  What
about the most remote route?  Angel Wings again. In doing the (possible)
first winter ascent of the peak and (probable) first winter ascent of the
South Arete, the choice for maximal suffering seemed clear.
 
But was it even possible?  In the summer the formation has a 16 mile
approach, but in the winter we had to contend with an additional 3 miles
as the Moro Rock spur road was closed.  Neither of us had climbed in the
area, and we assumed that finding the snow-covered trail in the heavy
Sierra west-side forest would be the crux of the trip. 
 
Having a party of 3 on the route seemed prudent, but recruiting another
partner proved impossible. Jason flew into Orange County from North
Dakota, and we left the next morning.  There is (or was, it's melting
fast) about three feet of snow at the Moro Rock turnoff where we parked,
mostly from a big storm that had swept through the previous week.  From
the car we started hiking in thin poly-pro and no shirts, which was to be
our hiking attire for most the trip.  It was so warm it almost felt like
cheating.
 
When we lost the trail in the snow in Crescent Meadow after walking three
miles, I sensed imminent disaster.  We quickly regained the trail,
however, and had only a few minor detours over the next 16 miles. 
Although the trail was about 95% covered in snow, it was fairly obvious
most the way.  The tough parts were the north-facing slopes, where snow
was deep enough to not form a trail-like impression, and the switchbacks,
which were difficult to distinguish from the surrounding features.
 
So, after three days of snow-shoed walking (two half days and one full
day) we arrived at the base of Angel Wings.  The wall soared above us,
completely clear of snow - we were psyched.  As a born pessimist, I hadn't
given us much of a chance of even seeing the wall, and here we were within
striking distance!  With the short days, we decided to plan on a bivy. 
The idea was for the second to ascend the lead line using Tiblocs, while
wearing the pack with the bivy gear.  However, trying to ascend a
near-vertical wall with a relatively heavy pack proved too difficult, so
we hauled the pack on any pitch over 5.9. 
 
There was no warm-up on this climb - I pulled off my plastic boots, put on
the rock shoes, and started climbing 5.10 off the snow.  The rock was
beautiful, clean Yosemite-like granite, and it was so warm I could have
been climbing in shorts.  By the time I got to the end of each pitch, I'd
be sweating profusely in my full Gortex suit, but I didn't want to take
the time to remove it and I knew it would get cold enough later that I
would be happy to have it.
 
I had quite a scare on the 3rd pitch, pulling around the loose block
indicated in the topo.  This thing is really huge and appears to be
delicately balanced on a small perch.  I pulled over a small roof and
pulled back on a flake, not knowing it was the block.  The flake started
moving outward, and I quickly stopped pulling, whereupon the flake settled
back against the wall. Jason, ascending the lines after I finished the
pitch, didn't even notice the block - it's so big and not obviously loose
that it just looks like part of the face.
 
The route follows a nearly continuous crack system, all the way up to the
5.11+ "Black Roof."  To speed things along, I didn't hesitate to
French free whenever I felt the need.  Also to save time, we led in
blocks, which meant my leads got us up to roof, where it was Jason's
turn.  He pulled on a few pieces to get over the 6 foot roof (including a
"fixed" #1 Camalot which I easily cleaned).  Then the fun began.  After
the roof the route traversed straight right, through a gully, and then
onto the arete again.  I guess the gully is dry in the summer because in
all the route descriptions I read, there was no mention of the raging
creek that now flowed down it.  Plus the gully was steep, much more like a
chimney.
 
This was one of those situations where you feel bad for your partner
leading the pitch, but that feeling pales in comparison to the feeling of
relief that YOU aren't leading it. Jason did a few badly protected moves
to get across the water, then had to move up.  At this point the rope
stopped moving for 45 minutes.  Stuck under the Black Roof, I had no idea
what was going on and it was deadly silent except for the water flowing
by.
 
Finally he yelled, "I guess I have no choice but this could be a big
one!"  The rope moved up steadily and Jason was soon at the anchor.  It
turned out that the delay was the result of Jason trying to decide which
way to face inside the chimney:  the side pouring with water, or the
relatively dry side.  He ended up with his back pressed against the wall
with the flowing water, no pro for 15 feet (and only marginal pro below
that), water cascading over his back.  When I finished ascending the
lines, Jason tipped our only chalk bag over and poured out so much water I
expected to see a fish come out.
 
The next pitch got us further up the chimneys, and Jason found a ledge
just as it was getting dark.  Unfortunately it too was pouring with water,
but we found a section way off to the side that was only half wet.  A
painful but not horrible bivy ensued, and the three packs of ramen we
cooked up in our little titanium pot definitely were a morale booster.  At
least we didn't have to worry about drinking water.
 
The next morning it was my lead again.  At this point we had the choice of
following the first-ascent line taken by Rowell and Jones in 1971, or
doing the direct variation on the very crest of the arete put up by
Leversee in 1984.  The Rowell/Jones gully looked full of ice, flowing
water, and squeeze chimneys, but seemed to offer a quicker way to the
summit plateau, so I picked the gully.  Wrong choice.  Without an axe or
crampons, I tried to chimney above the ice in my plastic boots, eventually
wriggling out of the chimneys after two pitches into a lower-angle gully
filled with snow.  The ice I knocked down on Jason had nearly taken him
out, and my new rope took several core shots.
 
Jason fought through the squeeze chimneys wearing the pack, and we both
thought we were home free.  No such luck.  At the top of the 300 foot snow
gully, we looked down from a sharp arete into the next gully west, which
is the main gully that splits the south face of Angel Wings. It completely
blocked our access to the summit plateau.  Moving up the arete looked like
several more pitches of steep rock, so we rappelled 300 feet into the main
gully and then had to walk back up several hundred feet in the snow. 
Finally, we were granted access to the summit plateau.
 
The descent to the west was relatively straightforward, with a few rappels
required to get over ice patches before we regained the trail above Lone
Pine Creek.  We left the now-shredded ropes and climbing gear on the trail
to dry, and walked back to our camp at Lower Hamilton Lake.  Neither of us
slept much that night, the adrenaline still pumping.  With lighter packs
and food in the car motivating us, the walk out took less than 2 days.
 
 

 

Tuesday, June 24, 2014

Hermit Spire....The Beckey, Mchale route.....South Face 5.8 1992 Ascent Pictorial with David Hickey, Shawn Hazelwood, Rene' Ardesch

The Saddle of the Hermit where many climbs can be accessed
Getting on the First Pitch
Racking up on the First Pitch Old School
 
Pitch Two....alittle Run out with a Knob


 
 


Wednesday, May 7, 2014

South Face Route 5.8 Moro Rock Pictorial








Getting on the First Pitch of the South Face route
First Pitch is awkward for sure...changing cracks
 
Finishing off the fairly easy 2nd pitch
A little runout face to the headwall and belay
 
The Boulder Problem to get you to Jungle Ledge...this is optional but makes things easier ..pic by Daniel Jeffcoach
 
Great Views on the Jungle Ledge and a good place for lunch

Belay below the Knob face and upper Crux
 
Working up knobs...tie offs are good here
 
Upper Crux
 
Top of the upper Crux pitch looking down on Jungle Ledge
 
Changing gear below the runout face pitch.....the only 2 bolts on the whole climb
 
working out the moves on the runout face
 
Wet, tired, hungry...after an adventurous early season ascent
 

Tuesday, January 7, 2014

Some more Lil Baldy....SNP

We used to go up there alot in the late 80's, early 90's when just a few were going up there. Still Crystals to be found on the ground. Lots of Good Rock up there with just a few potential routes left to do.......
First Pitch of 'Welcome to Little Baldy'

Last pitch of 'Wigged Out' is optional
Running it out on 'Wigged Out' upper pitches
West Face of Little Baldy showing some of the long routes.

Friday, December 20, 2013

Hockett Meadows...SNP....Bigfoot or What??

I've talked to alot of people that work in the woods for their living. I ask them about strange things they heard or have seen while being in the outdoors in Sequoia and Kings National Parks. I have a believe in the Bigfoot. Though, I'm also slightly skeptical and keep that all in mind when collecting information about strange stuff. The scream on this video is really eerie!! You tell me what it is?? I have heard the same kind of scream in Northern Ca. while way out  with Pack Mules, who were freaking out. I know that there is a Vast area, a kind of Bermuda Triangle of Bigfoot country, out in the South end of the park. An area that also encompasses Olancha Peak the area of a sighting in my earlier Bigfoot post. Mostly just wilderness, and its lonely out there! This video eludes to the screams coming from the East , which is just the area I'm talking about.  More on this to come...............

Monday, November 18, 2013

a few pics from Danland....11-15-13

 Got up on the trail later in the morning. We were waiting for it to get a little warmer as a weak storm front was passing bringing temps down and adding some wind. Nice hike up the trail with the sweet smells of earth, bay leave and oak. Got up to the rock wall and started up right there. We did the 3 pitches of the 'Silly Pinnacle'. First pitch is aid with a mixed bolt ladder and some climbing up higher. Second pitch is a 5.8 free climbing  corner, short but sweet. Last pitch is aid, a knarly looking overhanging roof crack up to a headwall bolt ladder to the top and the airy summit with the grand views! From here we do a quick 20' rap off the backside and scrambled down into a loose gully, down and back to the trail. We made it a quick trail run descent with the light going away fast and it was almost dark when we got to the car. Great Friday out!!